Trailguide - All Time Fall Time In Aosta

This part of the world always delivers. Great food, stunning views and when it comes to the trails there are very few places like it. Follow Graham and his posse as they ride the Col Malatra.

All Time Fall Time, Autumn in Aosta 

#alltimefalltime. It’s not really a phrase I can get behind. I like the sentiment; cool temperatures, perfect light and quiet trails, who wouldn’t be into that? It’s the wording I’ll pass on. Not because of some colonial hang-up over American English, (turns out fall has its roots in ye olde English with “fiaell” and “feallen”, which translates as “to fall from a height” whilst autumn comes from Latin via French, not very English, so really the US version is more UK, and vice-versa).

No, it’s the fall part. I don’t like the connotation of falling. I don’t like anything associated with falling. And whilst those golden hued leaves dropping from the trees and carpeting the trail sure do look pretty, they don’t half do a good job of hiding the sniper that has a bullet with your name on it in the chamber. 

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Still, what is mountain biking if not a continual battle against the fear of falling? It’s the finest time of year for riding bikes in the big hills, push the fear away and get on with making the most of the season. 

There are few better places to fully appreciate autumn than the Aosta valley in northern Italy. It’s that bit drier and warmer than the neighbouring Valais and Haute Savoie regions, and that bit less well known. A combination that results in days of perfect golden light bouncing of golden spires of rock on the high mountain, following golden ribbons of singletrack. A bit heavy on the golden metaphor? It really is that good though. 

Pedalling up Val Ferret that borders both France and Switzerland it’s obvious the season’s are a changin’. The high peaks of the Mont Blanc massif wear their white coat year-round but today the lower hills are also dusted in a sugar coating of snow from about 2500m up. We’re headed for the Col Malatra at a smidge over 2900m. Should be fine, shouldn’t it? 

Blue sky and sun in August would make this climb hard going, but right now the temperatures are about perfect for climbing. Just as well, as the initial 250m or so out of Arnouva are relentlessly steep.  

As abruptly as the climb begins it ends and, after negotiating a herd of cows, we get to enjoy the balcony trail towards the Bonatti refuge. That the cows have just walked along. You never finish a bike ride clean I guess... We’re keen to dodge the freshies though, as we still have a hike a bike to go. No one likes shouldering a bike with cow dung on the downtube...

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Of course, it’s not just the trail we’re enjoying. Despite a little cloud shrouding the peaks, there can’t be many backdrops more stunning than the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif chain, stretching from the Grandes Jorasses to Mont Blanc itself. We stop to stare a lot. 

The Bonatti refuge finally traverses into sight and we consider adding a bit of effort to the day to stop by for a coffee, but then, we’ll be passing it on the way down. A snack by some ruined houses with more staring at the backdrop is less effort and more than agreeable. And then it’s back to the climb. 

Above 2000m you start to feel the altitude. Or maybe it’s just the lazy bike park life we’ve been spoiled by for the last few months. At least we should have the arms for the descent after a summer spent going downhill. 

Pedalling up the Malatra valley you know your destination is hidden round a corner, but it doesn’t mean you don’t feel intimidated by the 3000m plus peaks staring back from right in front of you. It’s a long way up. Actually, it’s a long way up to the col too, there’s still 900m to climb, but at least it’s less than to the summits ahead.

Above 2500m you really start to feel the altitude. We’re at the snowline now, and the sky has turned a decidedly ominous colour of grey to give an added feeling of menace. Fortunately this part of the ride is a there and back trail. Having an easy run-away option rather than having to commit to passing a col or abandoning the ride completely always helps the confidence. And so, we plod on. What doesn’t help is the repeated false summits, teasing us with the promise of an end to the climb. 

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Eventually both the clouds and false summits end. It’s just the actual Col Malatra above us, all 2925m high of it and framed by blue sky. Obviously the last few meters are going to be the hardest, a harsh change of gradient is exactly what you’re not wanting, but it doesn’t matter, the climbing’s over. It’s amazing how quickly the human mind can forget a climb. 

After a bit more staring at views, a bit more chat (what point is there in riding bikes with friends if you’re not going to chat?) the descent is inevitable. The unwritten rules of machismo mean we have to try riding from the col. Snow, loose ground, cold limbs and cold brakes have other ideas though, some undignified tripod-ing later we start the descent proper. 

And it’s grand.  

The dirt’s a bit more humid and slick than ideal thanks to the melting snow, but at the same time, it’s much easier to spot the grey line of the trail when it’s highlighted by white, and it gives a good reason to talk of future returns for drier trails. Sections we worried about being a bit too technical on the climb pass in a blur of gravity assistance and the long flats that dragged on and on while climbing, are now grin inducing flow. 

When you’ve earnt your descent you tend to milk it a bit more, every last bit of enjoyment is eked from each meter as we leave the steeper upper sections of the trail and continue along the hanging valley, perfectly framing the Grandes Jorasses ahead, before splitting off to the Bonatti refuge.  

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One of the most popular stops on the Tour du Mont Blanc, the Bonatti refuge serves a fine cake and coffee. It is Italy after all. But anything on the Tour du Mont Blanc route, also means crowds.  

Conveniently, there’s more than just the TdMB trails from here. Rather than the usual traverse in the direction of Refuge Bertone, the next stopping point for those taking a lap around Mont Blanc, we hang right into the trees. 

Ah trees, both the beauty and bete noire of autumn. Happily for us, it’s still early in the season, so we get plenty of colours, but not so much of the root hiding blanket over the trail. Just as well, as there’s no shortage of sudden steeper sections, or root riddled riding as we plummet back to where we began what feels like a very long time ago in the morning. 

A full and fine day out, and no falling. #alltimenofalltime? Doesn’t really have the same ring to it. Autumn in Aosta? It’s not going to make it big on instagram, but at least there’s no bad connotations. It doesn’t change how good the riding is about here, about now. 

Fancy giving the ride a go? From wherever you’ve started, head along the Val Ferret valley floor road to Arnouva then take a right and gain 250m in a very short period of time. The trail then traverses back round towards the Bonatti refuge. Shortly before the refuge, head up into Vallone di Malatra, and carry on (often literally) up to the Col Malatra at 2925m. 

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To descend simply turn around at the col and head back the way you came, only this time passing the Bonatti refuge, then either descending directly to the valley floor or taking an undulating traverse on a short section of the Tour du Mont Blanc trail, to one of the later singletrack descent, depending on how busy the trails are and how much time you want to spend. 

From summer 2021 there is a ban on riding bikes on the trails after Leuchey on the way to the Bertone refuge, but there are plenty of other excellent options to descend. Grab the map, head on out and tell us if it was any good!